Roger_Baxter-Jones

Roger Baxter-Jones

Roger Baxter-Jones

British mountaineer

Roger Baxter-Jones (1950 to 1985, born in London), was a British mountaineer, skier and alpine guide. He was an early pioneer in Himalayan alpine style ascents of eight-thousander mountains, and a guide in Chamonix, noted for his competence and vast experience.[1] Paul Nunn wrote "One of Britain's leading mountaineers, a member of the ACG Committee for years, and certainly one of the strongest ever, he was a top off-piste skier, and a mountaineer of impeccable judgment, able to guide on routes of the highest standards with a considerable margin."[2]

Notable ascents

His notable ascents in the French Alps include the second ascent of the Whymper Spur Direct on the Grandes Jorasses with Nick Colton; and the first winter ascent (solo) of the North Face of the Aiguille des Grands Charmoz.[2][3][4]

His notable Himalayan ascents include Jannu, Makalu II,[5] Makalu (unsuccessful), Shisha Pangma,[6] Broad Peak, K2 (unsuccessful). Baxter-Jones' golden rule "Come back alive, come back as friends, get to the top — in that order" was well respected amongst elite climbers.[7]

Baxter-Jones climbed with many of the premiere alpinists of his time including Doug Scott (who said of Baxter-Jones: "All the partners I've had who I really rated have gone"), Georges Bettembourg and Alex MacIntyre.[8][9]

Baxter-Jones and Scott's ascent of Broad Peak was the subject of the 1984 film Himalaya - 8000 mètres sans oxygène by Jean Afanassieff.[10]

Death

He died on 8 July 1985 aged 35 while guiding a client, when a serac collapsed on the north face of the Triolet.[2]

The Doug Parker and Roger Baxter-Jones Memorial Scholarship was established at the American Mountain Guides Association to honor his memory.[11]

Personal life

Roger Baxter-Jones married Christine Comte, and had a daughter, the actress Melanie Baxter-Jones [fr].

References

  1. [1]
    Rose, David (19 August 1985). "Reaching the tragic heights of obsession". The Guardian. p. 19. ProQuest 186695761.
  2. [2]
    Nunn, Paul (1986). "In Memoriam" (PDF). Alpine Journal: 283–284. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  3. [3]
    Scott, Doug (1981). "Asia, Nepal, Makalu Attempt, Makalu II Ascent". American Alpine Journal. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  4. [4]
    Scott, Doug; MacIntyre, Alex (24 November 2016). Shishapangma The alpine-style first ascent of the south-west face. Vertebrate Publishing. p. 250. ISBN 978-1-911342-18-2. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  5. [5]
    "British team scales Himalayan peak". The Times of India. 27 October 1980. p. 13. ProQuest 747131555.
  6. [6]
    Club, American Alpine (May 2000). American Alpine Journal, 1983. The Mountaineers Books. ISBN 978-0-930410-21-6.
  7. [7]
    Twight, Mark (15 January 2002). Kiss Or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber. The Mountaineers Books. ISBN 978-0-89886-887-6.
  8. [8]
    Scott, Doug (22 March 1992). "Tiptoeing into the lap of the gods: Interview". The Observer. p. 55. ProQuest 477502774.
  9. [9]
    Gogorza, Óscar (29 December 2019). "El alpinista que no quiso ser oveja". El País (in Spanish). ISSN 1134-6582. Retrieved 12 July 2021.
  10. [10]
    "Himalaya - 8000 mètres sans oxygène". MNTN Film. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
  11. [11]
    "The Doug Parker and Roger Baxter-Jones Memorial Scholarship". American Mountain Guides Association. Retrieved 22 October 2020.
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