Green line |
Standard route from north, mainly identical with Mallory's route in 1924; high camps on c.7700 m and 8300 m (indicated by two triangles), present day camp on 8300 m is located a bit further west (for general reference, the route's topographic map and elevation profile can be found here). |
Navy blue line |
Zakharov Couloir. |
Light blue line |
Messner's traverse from north ridge to Norton Couloir in 1980 ("Everest Solo by Fair Means") w/o O2. |
Red line |
Great Couloir or Norton Couloir. |
Purple line |
Complete northeast ridge with Three Pinnacles; Japanese route to the top. Climbed before by Russell Brice & Comp., but only the purple-marked part of the ridge, without going to the summit; descent via standard route. |
Yellow line and Dark blue line |
American 1963, "The West Ridge". |
Orange line |
Yugoslavian route, 1979. |
Dark blue line |
Hornbein Couloir. |
†1 |
Resting place of Mallory's body, discovered in 1999 (graveyard with more than 15 bodies, according to Conrad Anker). |
†2 |
1st Step, resting place of Francys Arsentiev, "Green Boots", David Sharp. |
†3 |
2nd Pinnacle, resting place of Peter Boardman (+1982) in 1992. |
? |
2nd step, base at 8605 m, c.30 m high, (difficulty: 5–9/10). |
(a) |
Point at ca. 8321 m, reached by George Ingle Finch with supplementary oxygen in 1922. |
(b) |
Point at 8572.8 m on the western side of the Couloir, reached by Edward Felix Norton 1924 without supplementary oxygen (Norton preferred climbing the wall rather than climbing the ridge). |
(c) |
Area left out by the Yugoslavian party on their "complete West Ridge" ascent in 1979. |
(d) |
Difficult area that forced Americans, Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, to traverse from the west ridge to the north face in 1963. |
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Changtse is in the foreground |