Jan_Hojer
Jan Hojer
German rock climber (born 1992)
Jan Hojer (born February 9, 1992) is a German professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in competition bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several 8C (V15) boulder problems.
.jpg) Hojer in 2018 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | German | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | (1992-02-09) February 9, 1992 (age 32) Cologne, Germany | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 188 cm (6 ft 2 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 77 kg (170 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Ape index | +10 cm (4 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade |
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| Known for | Winning one World Cup and two European Championships | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on 21 September 2018. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Competition climbing
Hojer started participating in German Lead climbing youth competitions in 2004, at the age of 10. From 2008 to 2010 he participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since his performances in lead climbing were never outstanding, he quit competing in that discipline in 2011 and started competing in bouldering. Notable results started coming next year, when he ranked fifth in the Climbing World Championships. He won the seasonal title of the Bouldering Climbing World Cup in 2014 and finished second in 2015.[1]
In 2015 and 2017 he won the Climbing European Championships in Bouldering.[1] Also in 2017, he won the silver medal at the Bouldering World Games in Wroclaw, Poland.
Hojer has won national championships in all climbing disciplines. He won the lead in 2008, 2017, and 2019. In bouldering he won in 2011, 2014, 2015, and 2016, finished second in 2017, and has not competed since. Hojer won the first German National Championship in the combined format in 2018, and in 2019 he won the only discipline that he hadn't won yet, speed.
In 2019 Hojer qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics through his performance at the IFSC Combined Qualifier event in Toulouse.[2] Hojer finished 12th out of 20 at the Tokyo Olympics.
Rock climbing
He also obtained outstanding results in outdoor climbing. In May 2010, he redpointed the sport climbing route, Action Directe. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several outdoor bouldering problems at the grade of 8C (V15). In 2018, he made the third ascent of the deep-water soloing route, Es Pontàs at 9a+ (5.15a).
Climbing World Cup
| Discipline[3] | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 22 | 22 | 43 | - | - | - | - | 33 | - | 17 |
| Bouldering | - | - | - | 33 | 20 | 8 | 1 | 2 | 9 | 7 |
| Speed | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 29 |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 5 | - | 7 |
Climbing World Championships
| Discipline[1] | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 30 | - | - | 30 | - | 29 |
| Bouldering | 39 | 46 | 5 | 3 | 27 | 9 |
| Speed | - | - | - | 30 | - | 33 |
| Combined | - | - | - | 2 | - | 3 |
Climbing European Championships
| Discipline[1] | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 41 | - | - | 21 |
| Bouldering | - | 20 | 1 | 1 |
| Speed | - | - | - | 23 |
| Combined | - | - | - | 1 |
Bouldering
| Season[1] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2012 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2013 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2014 | 3 | 2 | 5 | |
| 2015 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2016 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2017 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2018 | 0 | |||
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 6 | 4 | 2 | 12 |
Redpointed routes
9a+ (5.15a):
9a (5.14d):
- Action Directe - Frankenjura (DEU)- May 22, 2010
8c+ (5.14c):
Boulder problems
8C (V15):
- Quoi de Neuf - Fontainebleau (FRA) - November 21, 2017[4]
- From Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (CHE) - March 8, 2015
- The Story of Two Worlds - Cresciano (CHE) - April 11, 2014[5]
- Le Marathon de Boissy - Fontainebleau (FRA) - March 2014 - First ascent.[6]
- Trip Hop - Fontainebleau (FRA) - October 2013
- The Big Island - Fontainebleau (FRA) - January 2013.[7]
8B+ (V14):
- Jour de Chasse - Fontainebleau (FRA) - December 2013 - First ascent. Hojer graded it a soft 8C, possibly because he did not use a heel hook that, according to some repeaters, makes it easier to climb.[8]
- Dreamtime - Cresciano (CHE) - February 18, 2013. Rated 8C by Hojer, who described it as "much harder than any 8B+ i've ever tried.."[9]
- IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Hojer's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- "These Six Climbers Are Now Going to the Olympics". Gripped Magazine. 28 November 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
- IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- Jan Hojer repeating The Big Island (V15) on ukclimbing.com, Incl. Video.
