François_Petit_(climber)
François Petit (climber)
French rock climber
François Petit (born March 27, 1975) is a French professional rock climber who specialized in competition climbing, and who is known for winning the Lead Climbing World Championship in 1997 and the Lead Climbing World Cup in 1995 and 1999.
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| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | French | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | (1975-03-27) March 27, 1975 (age 49) Albertville, France | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 173 cm (5 ft 8 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 58 kg (128 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | World Cup winner and World Champion | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Retired | 2004 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on August 15, 2019 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Born in Albertville, near the Vanoise National Park, Petit started climbing when he was a child, encouraged by his passionate parents. He shared his passion with his older brother and also the 1996 Lead Climbing World Cup winner, Arnaud Petit [fr].
He sport climbed on routes up to 8c+ (5.14c), but primarily focused on indoor climbing. He retired from international competitions in 2004. Since 2010 he has been the trainer of the French bouldering team. He is also the director of Le Mur de Lyon,[1] one of the largest indoor climbing gyms in France, located in Lyon.
Climbing World Cup
| Discipline | 1991 | 1992 | 1993 | 1994 | 1995 | 1996 | 1997 | 1998 | 1999 | 2000 | 2001 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 25 | 7 | 2 | 5 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 6 | 1 | - | 13 | 5 | 33 | 39 |
| Bouldering | 5 | 23 |
Climbing World Championships
| Discipline | 1993 | 1995 | 1997 | 1999 | 2001 | 2003 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 4 | 10 | 1 | 14 | 3 | 14 |
Lead
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1992 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 1993 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 4 |
| 1994 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 1995 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 1996 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
| 1997 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 1999 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2002 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 4 | 5 | 7 | 16 |
Single-pitch routes
8c+/5.14c:
- Superplafond - Volx (FRA) - 1995 - bolted by Jean-Baptiste Tribout in 1994
- Le Bronx - Orgon (FRA) - 1994 - first ascent
Multi-pitch routes
- Bonington - Torres del Paine (PAT - January 2007
- Eternal Flame - Trango Towers (PAK) - July 20–22, 2005
- IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Archived from the original on July 12, 2017. Retrieved July 20, 2017.
- IFSC, ed. (April 30, 2019). "Petit's profile and rankings". Retrieved April 30, 2019.